Passage/Caribbean Preparations by Chris

Passage/Caribbean Preparations

Written By Chris Conway

still working on my projects in the BVIs

I don’t think it is possible to ever get everything done on the to-do list for a passage.  In the time leading up to our departure, there were days where I ended the day with a longer list of things to do than I began the day with.  I was focusing on what I deemed a priority for our safe, fast passage in addition to prepping for time away from easy access to marine supply shops.  The list included a focus on servicing the engine, generator, rig, electrical systems, heads and upgrading the ground tackle.

 

For the generator, we were lucky enough to come across Karl, an experienced Fisher Panda mechanic in Annapolis.  He gave the generator a thorough inspection and performed some basic maintenance including an oil change and valve adjustment.  He also pointed out several installation issues such as the overflow freshwater cooling bottle mounted below the generator, rendering it useless.  Additionally I purchased the Fisher Panda spare parts kit and Karl took the time to show me some of the key parts and what parts you can work around or remove entirely and still get the generator to start.  It was well worth the few hours we spent with Karl to get at least some familiarity with the generator.

The engine has been running great (knock wood…) so I was just performing some basic maintenance and a general inspection.  I ended up changing out the oil, oil filter, fuel filter(s) and the transmission fluid.  Otherwise the engine looked like it was in good shape.  I also checked the sea water impeller which looked perfect so I left it in place.  A future project will be to upgrade the pulley systems to a serpentine belt to better handle the high output Balmar alternator.

In Annapolis we scheduled a visit from a rigging company to hopefully address the issue of the inner forestay halyard parting.  In addition to the inner forestay work, we also had some halyard work done.  We upgraded the main halyard to one of the new low stretch spectra or vectran or whatever they call the expensive ones these days and added a port spinnaker halyard so we would have two wing halyards in case one was parted.  The rigging work took longer than expected, but we hoped our halyard issues would be resolved.

pulling the nav station apart to do electrical work

We also scheduled a visit from a marine electrician to check out our batteries.  I had thought that one of the batteries may have been damaged early in our trip when a fuse went bad effectively removing two of the three batteries from the house bank.  That meant that we ran on one house battery for about a week until I finally tracked down the issue.  During that time we were deeply discharging the one battery since we thought we were on a 600 amp hour system instead of a 200 amp hour system.  We were also concerned with the rapid disappearance of the zincs on the prop.  The electrician tested all the batteries and also performed some tests on the electrolysis and everything tested out perfectly.  It was worth the visit to get rid of the anxiety.  Sometimes the internet can be detrimental as everything you read about AGM batteries says that if you look at it wrong it is ruined.

Sealing the deck where the new forestay enters to prevent leaking during the passage.

The heads continue to be an issue since everyone but me insists on using the bathrooms on the boat.  On the list was to change out all the hoses as they were original and had some odor issues developing.  I also had to do some work on the macerators to make sure we can empty the holding tanks when far enough offshore.  The electric pump for our head also needed to be rebuilt to replace all the gaskets and seals since it was beginning to leak.

While in Annapolis we enjoyed a nice stay at the Annapolis Landing Marina.  One of the perks of staying there was access to a courtesy car which meant I could spend more money at West Marine and Faucett’s.  I had been uneasy with our ground tackle situation for some time now as the boat originally had a Delta 55lb as the primary and a Fortress FX37 as the backup.  Before we left on our trip I had upgraded to 250 ft of 3/8 BBB chain for the Delta and moved the 25ft of chain that was on the Delta to the Fortress along with the 200 ft nylon rode.  I had wanted to add a third anchor since in a storm situation I would most likely have two deployed at once.  After exchanging emails with some of the other Beneteau 473 owners that I “met” through the Yahoo group, I decided on adding a 60lb Manson Supreme anchor.  One of the other owners had been able to get this anchor along with another in his bow rollers, which was my biggest concern.  I ended up cutting 70 feet off of the primary chain so I would have 180 ft of chain on the new primary anchor and 70 feet for the Delta which would serve as a backup secondary anchor.  Little did I know at the time that 10 days later I would be riding out a hurricane on the new Manson Supreme along with the Fortress with the Delta as a backup.

the water maker is delivered just in time

In addition to the above, I was working on at least the high level overview of some other projects to see what parts I might need to finish them up.  This included the installation of our new Wi-Fi antenna and router and the water maker.  For the water maker I was just trying to estimate what parts I may need for the plumbing and the installation of the major components.

Finally, I was working on what programs to use for email and weather data.  I settled on “mail a sail” which aside from an initial glitch in activation has been working well.  The GRIB files, which provide the surface winds and air pressure, are being retrieved through saildocs, which worked out great.  I was able to access the email through the Globalstar phone and pull the GRIB file into my OpenCPN plotter program to view the winds in my area as well as the forecast going 7 days out.

As I said in the beginning, there is no way to get to everything, but I completed the tasks needed to keep us safe on our passage.  The rest of the To-Do list will be waiting for me in the BVIs!

Boatschooling, Part I

Boatschooling: Day One, Still All Smiles….

Of the many responses we got about going on this voyage, one of the most common was from parents who claimed that they could never homeschool their children. Surprisingly, of all the things I prepared for in the past year, homeschooling was probably the least of my worries. I am a certified teacher, but I only taught for a short time before having children and staying home to raise them. However, I taught sixth grade, which can be one tough age. To top it off, I taught in a school district that had a good deal of cultural and economic hardships. I figured that teaching three well-behaved children, who were my own, would be a walk in the park. You’d think after being a mom for eleven years, I would know better…

Saying goodbye to Mrs. Walsh and Dr. Eckert

Our school at home, the Ho-Ho-Kus Public School, was incredibly supportive of our trip. A short note about homeschooling: the laws about homeschooling vary greatly from state to state. Being in New Jersey, I had to inform the school district of my intent to homeschool and ensure them that I would provide a comparable education compared to the public school. In other states, the laws are much more strict and can involve testing, sending in lesson plans, and more. Since we are returning to the school next year, we chose to follow our district’s curriculum, as opposed to purchasing one of the programs available online. This way, our children will have similar experiences to those of their classmates and will know what the teachers are referring to next year when they talk about something the rest of the students learned the year before.

Reese paints a postcard to send to her class

The Superintendent , Principal and the invaluable Mrs. Walsh, worked with me and agreed that the experiences of our children could enrich the education of the students at home as well. We brainstormed ideas and planned to Skype with the kids’ homerooms, send postcards from various ports back to the school, take pictures of our children in their school spirit shirts and post them on our website and the school website. Each of the children was assigned a teacher and I met with them extensively back in January. The teachers reviewed the curriculum with me and generously provided us with all the workbooks, textbooks, and other materials we would need. I just packed it all up in bins and threw it onboard in June, figuring I would sort it out once we got under way. (I was a little busy getting our house ready, working on the boat, and, oh yeah, caring for three children!)

Working on spelling

Once we got under way, I thought, “Maybe it’s not such a good idea to have the kids do NOTHING over the summer.” I knew they would give me a hard time if, all of a sudden, I started expecting them to do three hours of school a day after two months of a complete free-for-all. It’s hard enough to get kids back into the swing of things when you have a school, an experienced teacher, and a whole societal institution backing you up. So I decided to start math and reading over the summer. Nothing crazy. Just a few pages in their math workbooks for Units 1 and 2, which are review. I also had them read everyday and log their progress. Chris wanted to give them the summer off, but I promised that this little bit of work would pay off in September. Guess again, Mrs. Conway.

Porter takes a nap on Bryson’s lap after the stress of his Phonics book

September 1st came and went. We were having too much fun with the Armitages in Newport to start school. Then Labor Day weekend came and went and I knew the time had come. I made a big deal about telling the kids that all their friends were starting school that day, too. We went on Facebook at 8:45am and I showed them all the “First Day of School” photos that my mom friends had already posted. They looked at me like I was crazy. Insane. School? On a boat? They acted like they had no idea they would be doing schoolwork this year, even though we’ve been talking about it incessantly and it is a big topic of conversation every time we meet new people along the way. Even though half of Reese’s cabin is filled with school supplies.

DWT: Driving While Teaching. I should have been pulled over for trying to give two spelling tests while driving the boat through the Cap Cod Canal!

So I got out all the books, which had not moved from their bins, and we started up. After about 30 minutes, they were whining, complaining about stomachs hurting, staring at the blue water outside the portholes, and asking me how much longer I planned on torturing them. I stayed positive for about two days, but they are my kids before they are my students, and I can only take so much before I lose my patience. I found myself getting irritated and annoyed with them as their teacher. I thought about the great teachers they’ve had in Ho-Ho-Kus, who handle a whole class with such patience and grace. I berated myself every time I couldn’t get them motivated or interested and found myself saying ridiculous things, like “All your friends are in school for 7 ½ hours today. You should feel LUCKY!”. This works about as well as it worked when my parents told me about the starving kids in China in an effort to get me to eat liver. I thought they were insane to think that would work and I’m sure my kids are feeling the same. Chris was noticing how worked up I was getting and the mere mention of schoolwork was enough to put us all on edge. The situation was all the more difficult because I really did not expect it. Bryson and Reese are smart and work hard and even though Porter is new to school, I thought he would be fine as long as I worked with him one-on-one. I knew I had to do something, but as with much of parenting, by the time I figured it out, time had gone by and they were starting to realize that this school thing was non-negotiable. Phew.

Porter hard at work

Once we hit mid-October, we were over the hump. We were in a routine where we spend 5 days a week on schoolwork. The kids wake up before me (who doesn’t?) and start in on the work they can do independently, such as spelling and handwriting. Then they take a break to have breakfast, get dressed, brush teeth, and make beds. Once we are back at the dinette table, I assign Bryson and Reese their work for the day and they get started. I am there if they run into a problem and need some help. Then I sit with Porter and help him with his work. We got into a nice groove and I started to understand who needs more help in which subjects. I tried to organize my time so that I could work one-on-one with each of them for a little bit each day. Of course, Porter needs more of my time, Reese needs less, and Bryson is quite independent at this point. Most days, there is some point when all three are asking me questions at the same time, which gets a little overwhelming (It’s been awhile since I had a two-year-old, which is kind of what it’s like).

Chris taught a weather lesson when we installed our new barometer

After awhile, I realized that we were definitely making good progress. This helped me to relax a little. I know now that we will definitely get to everything we need to do for their grade levels and will have plenty of time left for exploring lots of fun, extra topics and projects. In fact, as of October 25th, Porter has completed half of his math curriculum for the year! Getting ahead will leave more time for moments like these: Porter, sleepy-eyed, and naked except for his pajama bottoms, gets all excited and calls me. “Mom!!! Doesn’t this Triscuit look like Minnesota?!!!”

The Minnesota Triscuit

See my next Boatschooling posts for details on our curriculum and our many field trips for on-location learning! (and more pictures, of course…)

Island Time

IMPORTANT MESSAGE: Our communications have changed now that we are in the Caribbean.  Our cell phones are OFF so please do not call or text us.  We have satellite phones, but they are expensive to use.  The best ways to get in touch with us:

Erica email: conwaysailors@gmail.com

Chris email: cwchhk@gmail.com

Skype: erica.conway (don’t always have enough bandwidth for video, but can instant message and have voice calls very easily.  Send us a message and we can catch up!)

Facebook: send messages on our fanpage: conwaysailors.com

our new backyard. and front yard.

Red Hook, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands: November 12-14

Soper’s Hole, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, November 15-16

“Oh my”, I thought .  “I live in the Caribbean.”  It hit me just like that, at an ice cream shop (obviously) as I was sitting at an outside table, licking my ice cream cone tonight.  I was watching the cars go by, looking at the businesses and street signs, and noticing the people walking down the sidewalk.  And I realized that I wasn’t looking around with the eyes of a tourist.  I was looking at my new home.  I live here.

Of course, everything is so very different than back in Ho-Ho-Kus (did I really have to say that?). The cars are beat up and despite the heat, the windows are rolled down and young men are smoking (cigarettes?) and blasting reggae music.  They drive on the left side of the street here.  The buildings are a mish-mosh of concrete, barred windows, and add-ons that weren’t necessarily designed by an architect.  Chainlink fences abound.  As I walk down the street, I am asked twenty times if I need a taxi ride.  Music is blaring from several bars.  There is a party feeling in the air.  And it’s Tuesday.

So why do I feel so at home?  The summer of cruising the northeast was lovely, and very familiar.  Beautiful harbors, great people, lots of nature, and adorable villages were the norm.  But the Caribbean is what I had in mind when I asked Chris to move onto our boat- that we didn’t yet own.  Being in the BVIs last year with our friends Bryson and Cindy was something special.  I saw, in one short week, what their life was like, living in the Caribbean for 6 months each year.  The pace of life is not just slower- it breathes with you.  The goal each day is…well, there IS no goal.  Each day grows with you and evolves as you do.  You meet each moment with your full attention and end up doing more, experiencing more, connecting more, and living more, than if you had made a detailed itinerary that planned every moment.  That resonated with me.  Bryson and Cindy inspired me.  And here I am, on the brink of immersing myself in what they call “Island Time”.

Celebratory Dinner at Island Time in St. Thomas

Of course, it will take a bit of transitioning.  We arrived at 0930 on Monday the 12th and we were all completely hyped up about completing our trip.  After showers and lunch, we dug into the work of cleaning up the boat after 8 days at sea.  Laundry, cleaning, washdowns, taking out the garbage, filling water tanks, and reorganizing the depleted storage lockers took most of the day.  We all crashed after a celebratory dinner at Island Time (yup), complete with my first Painkiller of the trip.

For those unfamiliar, a Painkiller is the signature drink of the Soggy Dollar Bar, located in White Bay, on Jost Van Dyke, my favorite place in the British Virgin Islands, and involves Pusser’s Rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, cream of coconut, and freshly ground nutmeg.  It is delicious and packs quite a punch, so one is plenty for me.  While I am not a big drinker, this will NOT be the last time you hear me going on and on about Painkillers.  I was excited to find orange juice in cans in St. Thomas so that I can make them onboard (no room in fridge for things like oj).

As it had been at least 2 hours since my last adventure, I found myself in another one on the dock.  I was talking to Lana and Dave on the phone and had to walk up and down the dock to get decent service on the phone.  I heard footsteps, like a dog’s, and looked down at a giant iguana walking towards me.  I started running down the dock and found a bench to climb up on.  The men standing around thought this was pretty hilarious.  One of them picked up the iguana and brought him over to me, asking if I wanted to pet it.  Clearly, this guy has trouble reading body language cues.  I screamed at him as he thrust the iguana towards me.  Finally, he put him down a few yards away and the iguana started walking away from us.  As soon as I set my feet on the ground, the iguana spun around and charged at me!  Back up on the bench I went, screaming at the top of my lungs.  He could have easily gotten up on the bench, but thankfully he jumped in the water instead.  He must have gotten the message from the flies in Maine that I taste good…

As we settled in, I realized sadly that we would have to bid farewell to my dad.  We had our self-caught mahi mahi dinner on Tuesday night, which was a great way to put a close on our adventure.  He flew home on Wednesday morning after an unforgettable journey.  I know that none of us will ever forget this special time we all had together.

With dad safely home, the water tanks filled, and our groceries restocked (at literally stomach-turning high prices), we left St. Thomas and sailed towards paradise.

Reese announces our departure from St. Thomas, island-style

In a few hours, we pulled into Soper’s Hole, Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands.  We raised our BVI courtesy flag, which is a small country flag that is raised up the mast to pay respect to the country you are visiting.  We also flew the quarantine flag until we cleared customs and immigration.

We took the dinghy off the bow of the boat after its safe passage from the US.  Off I went with our boat documents and passports to check in to our first country.  The officials were very helpful as I filled in pages of forms and paid $20.  Our passports were stamped and I was told that we were welcome to stay for four weeks.  If we want to stay longer (yes, please), we will need to apply for an extension.  We will need to take a trip to Spanishtown before December 14th to take care of that little bit of business, as we plan to stay in the BVIs until New Year’s Eve.  Jost Van Dyke is the place to be on New Year’s Eve, so we now have one thing on our calendar between now and then.

We spent the rest of the day enjoying Soper’s Hole and it’s shops, having lunch at Pusser’s, and swimming off the boat.  Chris made tuna tacos with the blackfin tuna we caught.  He seared small chunks of it as an appetizer and we savored the fresh deliciousness with just salt and pepper.  Yum.  I think we are going to adjust to Island Time just fine…

the kids in their favorite spot, on the boom