“I’ve cruised the Maine coast. I think.”

Camden, Maine

August 1-3, 2012

The title quote is a witty quip about the fog that is infamous on the Maine coast.  A lovelier quote for this area is this excerpt from “Renascence”, a poem by Nobel Prize winning poet, Edna St. Vincent Millay:

“All I could see from where I stood

Was three long mountains and a wood;

I turned and looked another way,

And saw three islands in a bay.

So with my eyes I traced the line

Of the horizon, thin and fine,

Straight around till I was come

Back to where I’d started from;

And all I saw from where I stood

Was three long mountains and a wood.”

drooling…

This area of Maine is indeed beautiful and picturesque.  We enjoyed the sail over from Pulpit Harbor, taking in the scenery and looking at all the tallships, lighthouses, and islands dotting the horizon.  The presence of the wooden ships, from small dories and Friendship boats to the stately Windjammers, make it feel like we have taken a step back in time.  Sailors fill the harbor on one gorgeous wooden boat after another.  They are coiling lines, flaking mainsails, and looking like a picture out of the 1920’s.

 

one of many lovely meals shared together with the Coleman family

We could have stayed locked in history, but we were happy instead to spend a few days with our friends, the Colemans, from Ho-Ho-Kus.  Cory, Tamara, Greg, Lindsay, and Danny were up visiting Tamara’s parents.  They met us for lunch and ended up spending two days with us, showing us their favorite spots in this beautiful area.  I lost count, but I think we also had 65 meals together along the way!  Highlights of the tour include a visit to Battie Mountain for sweeping views of fog and a walking (and eating) tour of Belfast, which was right up my alley (and Tamara’s).  We loved the little shops, the gourmet organic restaurant/produce market, the new age stores, and the hippie vibe of the locals.  This was all mixed in with the traditional Maine industries, like shipbuilders and lobstermen.  I could have spent another day in Belfast, but I will wait for the next time Tammy and I get to meet up in this place that floats both of our boats.

views of Camden through the fog on Mt. Battie

We got our first real taste of Maine fog in Camden.  It rolls in and sits on top of the harbor like a blanket.  It sounds like it would be bad, and it is certainly nerve wracking if you are out there sailing in it, but it was actually very calming and grounding for me.  There is a stillness and a quiet that settles over the world when it is foggy.  It is similar to the cold quiet that fills the air after a nice snowstorm back at home.  I awoke at daybreak one morning and went up on deck to check on things.  I couldn’t see past the boat that was right next to us, and I could barely see that.  The water was flat and still, reflecting the lobster pots.  Every surface was covered in droplets of dew.  It was so beautiful.

Porter steers us through the fog to town.

The fog hung around for two days, and then we finally took a chance and left the harbor for Vinalhaven.  The sailors on the boats coming in had that “Thank god it’s over” look on their faces and they warned us that it was “really bad out there.”  We figured we would try it and could always come right back if it was terrible.  We were shocked to find clear, sunny weather less than 200 yards out of the harbor!  We looked back on Camden and saw that the fog was just sitting right on top of her, with the famous hills poking their heads out of the top.  We turned happily towards Vinalhaven and what promised to be a fog-free forty-first birthday for Chris…

all the kids on Mt. Battie

buddies Danny and Reese

Cory and Tamara in front of the tree where they were engaged:)

An artist we ran into on the waterfront, painting the scene behind him. This only took 1 1/2 hours!

Belfast, Maine

 

 

s/v Patronus is on the move!

We interrupt this program to give you an update in real, actual time.

Bar Harbor, Maine: Our northernmost destination

We are departing Maine tomorrow.  Please follow our progress via our website (left margin: Patronus’ Location) as we embark upon our first long passage.  You can also see when we arrive on our Facebook Fanpage (conwaysailors, please Like us if you haven’t already) .  We will be sailing from Port Clyde, ME to Boston, MA with a short stopover in Damariscove, ME (approximately 130 miles).  We hope to arrive Friday, August 17, 2012 at 1700 hours.

Chris and I will take turns driving, sleeping, and taking care of the kids (wait, shouldn’t that take three people?).  We are all stocked up with 56 gallons of diesel, 220 gallons of fresh water, and a packed fridge.  I even made a goody bag of little toys and games to keep the kids happy:)

Goodbye Maine! We LOVE You!!!

 

Pulpit Harbor, Maine

7/31/12-8/1/12

Well, we had yet another trip that was mostly motorsailing.  Even though we saw two dolphins and a seal, I found myself getting annoyed at the whole “Downeast” myth.  We have been going “downeast” (down wind) for weeks and have had only one amazing day of actually sailing downwind in decent breeze.  Chris chose a nice reward at the end, though.  He had found Pulpit Harbor in our guidebook, which is located on the north end of North Haven.  North Haven is one of the large islands in the middle of Penobscot Bay.

Chris rows to the other side of the harbor, the ideal location in which to view the sunset

We pulled into this quiet harbor and I marveled at how many boats there were and yet how very quiet it was.  There were people kayaking, people reading in their cockpits, and people on the shore, but there was a kind of hush that made me think of “Goodnight Moon”.  Chris and the kids kayaked to town and I stayed on the boat to enjoy some meditative time alone in the beauty of our surroundings.

sunset in Pulpit Harbor, ME

We all went swimming at 1800.  Chris dove under the boat to inspect for damage after I ran over a lobster pot during the trip.  He noticed a few scratches on the rudder, but more importantly, he saw that one of our zincs is completely gone and the other is halfway worn out.  Zincs are used as a sacrificial corrosive.  The sea water wants to induce galvanized corrosion of the metal on a boat.  Zinc corrodes more readily than other metals, so rings of zinc are screwed onto the bottom of the boat, especially near the expensive and important propeller.  I’m sure some of my sailor readers will comment here and help explain this better.  All I know is that they need to be replaced soon, which means all the SCUBA gear has to come out…

The next morning, we pulled the anchor to discover tons of mud had attached itself to our 150 feet of anchor chain.  Chris hauled bucket after bucket of water up to rinse the mud as the chain came up.  He was sore the rest of the day.  Wait till you see what our solution to that dilemma is…(and sadly, it isn’t installing a fresh water washdown hose)